Rock hewn churches of Tigray

Tigray region

Tigray women (notice the
typical hairstyle)

Visiting Danakil was a highlight and anything else following that would have struggled to match it so in a way it was good that Danakil happened at the end of my time in Ethiopia …well almost the end as I was left with one more day before I had to fly to Addis and then onwards to Liberia.

That day provided a good opportunity to spend some time in rural Tigray region which sits in the Northern highlands of the country. On the way back from the depths of the Danakil and as we started to ascend the mountains the change from Afar to Tigray country was almost as dramatic as the mountains. Suddenly I could see a discernible change in dwellings, attitude of the people, their hairstyles, and the color and style of their wardrobes among other things.

The whole region is dotted by peaks like these

Also during the Danakil trip, I had heard several folks from my tour voice their interest in a day trip to the Tigray churches but by the time I returned back to Mekele it was evident that nobody had a plan. We got back to Mekele late in the evening and I was almost resigned to wait out the night to figure out a way to get to the churches of Tigray the next morning until I met a chap called Tommy in a coffee shop.

Hiking up Abuna Yemata Guh

Tommy was a Tigrayan who lived in Addis Ababa but was visiting his family in Mekele. Knowing he was a local, I asked if he could arrange for a vehicle and a driver for the next day. I gave him my phone number and he told me he would call me the next morning. Tommy was not a tour operator in any sense but the way I saw it, I wanted to arrange something on short notice and he would stand to make a fast buck out of the deal. Seemed like a win-win.

Getting some rock climbing action

The priest awaits us

He promptly picked me up the next morning and we then picked up a few more folks from the Danakil party and within an hour we were 11 of us plus Tommy, a driver and a kid who knew the region. A bumpy three hour ride and we were in the Gheralta region of Tigray. As per the guide book, Tigray had several churches divided into clusters scattered over a large rural area and in a day it was not possible to see more than three or four of them.

This picture gives an idea of the precipitous ledge

The cross wielding priest

One of the benefits that came with being the organizer of the trip was that I had the first pick on which church we could visit and without hesitation I choose Abuna Yemata Guh. It’s a partially hewn structure halfway up a sheer cliff and from what I had read, it was an exhilarating climb (or a daunting one for people scared of heights).


The Nine highly  regarded priests (and misionaries) who brought Chirstianity to Ethiopia painted on the inside of the roof



Looking from the church at the Megab plains below

Personally, I think the climb was mildly challenging but the views from the church were simply breathtaking. Secluded, rural, relatively difficult to get to, and striking views make this church a perfect place for a tranquil monastic existence.

On the way back we also visited the Abraha Atsbeha church which was fairly ho hum compared to Abuna Yemata Guh but in its own right pretty decent. Even though I initially wanted to visit at least 3 churches with two of them involving hikes, I had to settle for just two as a fellow traveler got sick. On one hand I empathized with the sick traveler but on the other hand I felt slightly disappointed.

Another church on the way

Mural at the Abraha Atsbeha church

There are pros and cons for traveling in groups since it greatly helps to reduce costs but cases like these make me wonder if I am better off by traveling independently…but then again…I would not meet awesome travel companions either. I guess it all evens out in the end!


Girl at Abraha Atsbeha
church


Fast forward a day and as I sat at the airport waiting to board my plane to Liberia I began reliving my journey through Ethiopia and felt very content. In little over a fortnight I had seen castles, churches, mosques and monasteries; burnt holes in my shoes traversing mountains, volcanoes peaks and sheer cliffs; my eyes were fortunate to have witnessed the place where the Nile begins and where the African continent is splitting apart; and finally experiencing some amazingly diverse cultures that call Ethiopia home. Sure there were places I wish I could have gone to like Lalibela, or the Omo valley or the Bale Mountains but I guess I can leave that for another day.

As a country, Ethiopia has widespread poverty and a burgeoning population and though it sometimes seems to be pulling in different directions with regional politics taking precedence over national importance, if India can do what it’s doing now so can Ethiopia. Of all the African countries that I have been to, I see the most potential for growth and development in Ethiopia, and if it does manage to get its act together then perhaps it can once again be what it used to be a couple millennia ago during the Aksumite kingdom…a great regional power.


Below is a link to Google map that shows a pictoral view of my journey through Ethiopia

View Journey through Ethiopia in a larger map