Closing Views on Sao Tome & Principe

The fort..one last time!

Being back on the island of Sao Tome, I got the sense as though this journey was coming to a close but I still had a day to go before calling it quits and importantly I had to get a transit visa for Nigeria. When I came in through Nigeria, I only had a single entry visa and was told by the immigration officer that I either had to get another transit visa before entering Nigeria or spend the night at the airport…the latter did not sound very comfy.

As I entered the Nigerian Embassy, it was good to hear English as I put in my application. While there, I got into a good 20 minutes chat with a person I later learnt was the chief Consular. He seemed a very easy going chap and quite contrary to the general impression I have of most in that profession. I was told to return back after one business day which was the same day I was flying. Normally, I would be apprehensive of not having my passport with me the day I am traveling but my flight was in the afternoon and I sort of knew the Consular so was not overtly anxious.

Fish with fruta-pão

Hospital at roça São João dos Angolares

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I love trying street food so that evening I went to the central market seeking dinner where I saw a lady grilling fish and a few makeshift tables by the road side. I got myself comfortable and ordered one. The fish was marinated in spices and lime and was delectable and it was served with fruta-pão (bread fruit). The whole meal with a drink cost about 45,000 dobras which was less than two and a half dollars!

Every time I eat by the road side I am amazed at not only how tasty the food is but cheap as well. The best part is that since its by the road side, it’s a great spot to observe the locals and is also one of the best places to interact with them.

Growing up as a kid I had seen a tree with pretty broad leaves in the backyard but never quite knew what it was until my maternal uncle told me it was vilayati phanas (foreign jackfruit). I now know that it was breadfruit and it can actually be eaten and is pretty similar in texture and tastes to potatoes when cooked. Hmmm…everyday there is something new to learn.


Coffee




They both wanted an action shot and after several
tries i got this one which they were very happy about

I woke up the next day not feeling great and the temptation to stay in bed was strong since I had seen and done what I wanted to in STP but then on the other hand, I really could not let go waste a bonus day like this. I just simply had to do something so I decided to visit the eastern side of the island. I figured that I would be able to shrug the malaise by walking it off.

I took one of the several yellow taxis to the town of São João dos Angolares to visit the roça there. Though the roça was very well refurbished and maintained, it lacked the rustic charm of the ones I had seen on Principe. I presume its because this place does see some tourist and expat traffic.

Walking on the road back to Sao Tome I got a ride from a kind pickup drive and he dropped me at a place called as “Boca de Inferno” where waves have cut a narrow ravine that ends in a cave with a hole in the roof of it. When the waves hit the cave, its forced out through the roof in a dramatic fountain.

As few kids at the Boca de Inferno who came by later walked me to the village of Agua Ize. As we strolled along the beach I heard a small commotion as people started to gather around the beach. I did not know it at that time but I was to witness a rare occurrence.

That day the sea was extremely rough and this may have resulted in squids being caught up in the waves while they were probably feeding. This was good news for the locals who seeing their chance got into a squid catching frenzy. Some jumped into the waves with bare hands while others went in with poles. There were a few who did not even waste time returning to the beach to lay their catch. They just threw their catch on the beach and jumped right back into the waters to catch some more. The children and women mostly acted as runners. I was thinking of jumping in to try my hand too but the thought of a large sharp beak dissuaded me. This normally happens two or three times a year so it was nice to have witnessed it first hand.

A good hour and thirty minutes of this frenzy and the squid retreated to deeper waters so I walked to the roça to see if I could have one cooked for me but I learnt that it takes time to clean and cook it. I could not help but notice that the residents of Agua Ize either had a big squid in their hand or a big smile on their faces anticipating a hearty meal for the next couple days!

Roça at Agua Ize

As I write this final chapter from STP I am looking at my right toe where I picked up a memento in the form of a busted toe while walking back barefoot that evening. The injury is fleeting, but the people of this country have left a far more indelible mark.

Gigi...the sweet housemaid where i stayed
...and her daughter

Sao Tome & Principe does not have the thing that most people visualize of when they think of Africa, i.e. large mammals or tribal culture. Most of the flora and fauna, although unique and of immense importance to scientists, comes in small sizes. The people are a healthy mix and descendents of Portuguese, Angolan and other Africans nations and have been mixing for 400 years now so there is little tribal influence. The fantastic hiking through its mountains, tropical forests and beaches aside, what makes these islands special in my eyes are the people…perhaps the most friends and genuine ones I have seen so far. I can see some parallels with Comorians and perhaps that has something to do with the small island nation phenomenon.

Sao Tomean Dobras

If I needed directions, people would walk me to the place or even drive me there. I don’t recall market sellers trying to swindle me by charging higher prices. If I was caught in rain and needed shelter, they brought me a chair. I ask a man for a restaurant and he takes me home for a meal. If I was thirsty, they offered me coconut water. Talking over a meal, they waited for me to finish before taking their leave. They always had a smile and laid back attitude and were willing to talk and joke with anyone. They even took pleasure in having their photos taken.

Do I think its going to change?...well, since there is immense potential for growth in tourism, then by the same token I think that the people (some) will change.
And although I think some change is good and definitely inevitable, I truly hope the people of Sao Tome & Principe manage to retain their exuberance for life and benevolence towards outsiders.