In Search Of The Tsaatan (Reindeer People)



My border permit

 
 Once in Moron, the idea was to find the possibilities of hiking/horse riding around the Khövsgöl Lake but there was still that lingering desire to see the Tsaatan people.

“…they inhabit one of the harshest and most inaccessible regions of the world. The northern fringes of Mongolia are on the edge of civilization”. This was the actual excerpt from my Bradt guidebook that fascinated me the most about these people. Tsaa in Mongolian means Reindeer and Tsaatan literally means “With Reindeer”.

Most of the landscape from Moron to Tsaagan Nuur was similar to this

I had never heard of them until I read about this reclusive, tiny ethnic group of people who herd reindeer and live in remote mountains of North Mongolia close to the Russian. They constitute the smallest ethnic group of Mongolia numbering less than 100 families. Originally part of the Tuva people from the neighboring Tuva Republic in modern day Russia, they escaped to Mongolia in the early 20th century for political reasons and have managed to maintain their unique identity and tradition.

Yak at the Darkhad valley

From most of the accounts I had read, it seemed as though this would not be possible in a few days but I didn’t want to drop the idea until I could confirm it myself once I got to Moron…the problem was where to start?

River crossing

Passing through pine forest...note the road condition

Fortunately, on the ride from the airport, I noticed a small English signboard called “Tourist Information”. I immediately stopped the driver and ran into the office to enquire. As luck would have it, I met a Saraa who explained what it entails to get there and the cost. The initial cost was very steep considering I was going to do it solo. Disappointed, I told her I couldn't do it.

Tsaagan Nuur Lake

Saraa seemed a really nice lady and genuinely wanted to help me so she gave me a second option but I would have to forgo all comforts and arrange for my own meals and certain nights of accommodations and even though it was still pricey I agreed. The way I saw it, I had a budget per day for Mongolia and up until that point I had under spent. Also, there was no price tag I could put on missing out on this unique opportunity after having come so far. Now that I look back on it, I think that was one of the best decisions I have made on my travel journeys…akin to jumping on a public pirogue in Mali to sail to Timbuktu! 

Choiyo leading the way as we start ascending the mountains

The plan was to leave the next day so I stayed at a guest house in Moron for that night. I am pretty sure Eric would have loved to join but he was schedule to fly earlier so could not make the 6 day plan, instead he planned to stick to the original plan of hiking/horse riding around Khövsgöl.

Mongolian Taiga

The next morning Saraa picked me up and we shopped for provision and got the border control permit from the police. I was assigned a Russian van and my driver was a chap called Gana and we would be driving for a day and half to reach a remote settlement close to the Russian border called Tsagaan Nuur. From there I would have to ride a horse to get to a place called as Mingulet, a temporary settlement of the Tsaatan.

Our companions through the horseride

If the ride through Gobi was flat this was anything but flat as we passing through beautiful countryside consisting of rolling meadowlands, rock strewn mountains, bucolic streams, sparkling rivers, scores of cattle and a splattering of gers like tiny dots on a large canvas. Most of the deserts of the world are by and large empty so Gobi being the same was not a surprise but I got a sense of just how empty Mongolia is through this long drive. The road was in appalling condition; I think the van spent more time move sideways rather than forward as it negotiated large potholed, unpaved, rock strewn, muddy roads. Fortunately it was just me and the driver so I had the best possible seat beside the driver.

Choiyo and I with our horses on the mountain pass

Tsaatan lady

As the day progressed, the vegetation changed ever so slightly as steppes gave way to coniferous trees and we were well and truly into the Mongolian Taiga. Late evening we entered the beautiful Darkhad valley and at the bottom of this valley, beside a river sat a solitary ger where we stayed for the night. The lady of the ger was Saraa’s sister and her husband was combing his goats for Cashmere right outside the house. Below is a is a video I took of the Cashmere combing process. At their ger I experienced first hand the hospitality of the Mongolian nomads that is legendary.



Riding the reindeer

 Throughout my six day journey I stayed at family gers and the hospitality was similar. Any visitor is welcomed graciously and then first given hot Tsai (Mongolian salty tea). Later the visitors could be given a variety of dairy products. A few of which I was able to taste and in some instances see them prepare were Urum (White butter), Byaslag (Cottage cheese), Tarag (Yogurt) and the not so delicious Aaruul (dried curd). Perhaps it’s the harsh terrain and climate coupled with the need for interdependent existence that has made them such hospitable people.

I loved the symmetry of this picture

Partially forzen river at the Baroon Taiga Tsaatan settlment of Mingulet

Back at the first ger, I saw their son Temujin tend cattle and I wondered how different the scene would have been around 800 years ago when another kid by the same name tended his cattle in the North Mongolian steppes quite similar to this who later went on to become Chinggis Khaan. The only difference I could imagine were the clothes they were wearing which indicates how little the life of the Mongolian nomads has changed since then.

A Tsaatan girl

The reindeers loved to lick my hand to get the salt from the sweat

Tsaatan kids

The next morning I gave some cigarettes and candies as my appreciation in return for their hospitality and headed for Tsagaan Nuur where I had to check in with the border control. Once cleared with the necessary paperwork, I met up with Choiyo and Pagna (who were Tsaatan) and started our ascent into the mountains. The only way to get to the Tsaatan settlement was by riding a horse through rugged mountains covered with pine and larch forests for 6-7 hours accompanied by a Tsaatan guide. Without a Tsaatan guide it’s very difficult to get to their settlements as they constantly change their settlement based on pastures just like most other nomads.


Milking

 It was close to nightfall when I noticed a few Ortz in the distance signaling that I was near and it was time to gallop towards them. Ortz are conical tents made of animal skin and wooden poles and are the traditional Tsaatan dwellings. By the time I made it to their settlement I was cold, sore and tired. A couple bowls of hot reindeer milk tea warned me up and then it was time to lay my sleeping bag in Pagna’s family Ortz to spend the night.


Kids giving salt



Chopping wood for cooking



Inside Pagna's family Ortz

Pagna’s was supposed to be my translator but her English was very basic but it was quite understandable since she was just beginning in her role as a translator just as most of the community is as they try to showcase their unique lifestyle through eco-tourism which is still in its nascent stage. This meant that I had to go out of my comfort zone to interact with the Tsaatan and it positively resulted in me picking up quite a bit of Mongolian in a day and a half.

The next day was spent observing the Tsaatan going about their daily lives. The men leave early to lead their reindeers to forage for moss in the surrounding high mountains. The women go about their daily chores and cooking and then when the reindeer return its time to milk them while the men chop wood for cooking and warmth in the brutally cold weather.

With language being a barrier, it took a while but the community soon opened up. As I walked around several of the Ortz, I was invited in and served either reindeer tea or food and we did our best to communicate sometimes with the help of Pagna’s pocket dictionary cum translator.

Choiyo embodied the cowboy spirit



Above: Me with my deel, boot and my backpack on one of the reindeers
Right: Gana...the most mischievous kid around
Right bottom: Starting our way back to Tsaagan Nuur

I had brought food provision for my meals but it was so much fun to share. I ate what they normally eat and reciprocally they were eager to taste what I had. It was quite amazing to see their culture of interdependence as anyone could enter any Ortz and join in for a meal at anytime. Is seems as though they exist as one single community rather than an individual or even a singular family. Without being insensitive to African culture and trying to generalize, I should point out that unlike Liberia and some other experiences in Africa, at no point did anyone beg for anything nor did I feel that I was given special treatment for being a foreigner. It was just the most natural form of acceptance and sharing I have ever encountered.

It was late June and officially summer but there was still some snow and ice cover around and the temperature was extremely cold even during the day. If that was cold then the night decided to give me a taste of what this place is in the winter. I went to bed listening to what I thought was rain only to find out the next morning that it was snow and sleet.

Tsaatan caravan

Starting early

 

National election campain...this one was the Democratic party

The whole place was covered in snow and was a complete contrast to what I had seen the previous day. I was definitely not equipped for this weather so Pagna’s mother Bayirma gave me her late husband’s thick deel and leather boots. I was cold but the Tsaatan where totally at home in this weather. Even for the weather hardened ethnic Mongols, the Tsaatan are revered for their ability to withstand severe cold. A few days later I was asked by a Mongol if it was true that the Tsaatan kids walk barefoot on ice seemingly oblivious to the cold. I did not see evidence of that but they were indeed comfortable in it.

Farewell picture with my Tsaatan hosts

 I had to return back to Tsagaan Nuur that day so Choiyo prepared our horses. It so happened that we would be having company as there were a few more Tsaatan heading the same way. On the way back not only did I have a completely different landscape due to the prior night’s snowfall but I was part of a Tsaatan caravan of ten, half of whom were on horses and the other half on reindeers.

After making through the treacherous high mountain passes, we stopped by to have tea and then back down the forested mountains to finally get to Tsagaan Nuur. Its no wonder the reindeer call this place home as they were completely at ease on the soggy, rocky, snow soaked wet and slippery terrain. Our hardy horses were no match for them.

Sun set at Tsaagan Nuur

Notwithstanding the one time when I was overthrown from the horse as I got stuck on one of the branches this was thoroughly the most enjoyable rides of my life. The two days that I spent with the Tsaatan people including the ride to get there and then back along with the caravan were probably one of the most authentic experiences I have ever had and easily rank in the top three if not the top.

To top it off, I was gifted an amulet and bracelet made of reindeer antlers by Choiyo’s and Pagna’s family respectively. Now, not only do I have memories and pictures of these truly extraordinary people but also these special gifts to treasure.