My Closing Observations On Kenya

Our trip in Kenya was almost drawing to a close and the last day and half were spent in and around Nairobi. It had been almost 10 days in Kenya and we had not seen downtown Nairobi yet. I had arranged for a van and a driver for the last day so we could do just that.

First stop was the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust. This non-profit organization started in the 1970’s, is working to raise orphaned elephants and black rhinos and then reintroduce them in the wild. This center is open to visitor daily for only one hour and it’s very interesting to see the bond between the caretakers and the orphaned elephants. The orphans are reared as a group and the caretakers look after them 24h hours in different shifts and provide the role of the matriarch until the elephants grow old and a leader emerges among them. They are then released into the wild as beacons of hope for their species.

While I am on the topic of conservation I would like to add that Kenya, by and large seems to have a pretty good structure in place for conversation of its wildlife. The country is blessed that it has such astonishing amount of big game but conservation can sometimes seem like as impossible task. As an upcoming developing nation, it’s not immune to the fact that there is a growing middle class that aspires to have the same standard of living as that in the developed world. As an African nation too, it’s not immune to the fact that its population is rising dramatically and tragically a combination of these two invariably means a death sentence to wildlife.

Kenya, atleast the parts that I visited, can’t be labeled as pristine. Infact the word “safari” originates from the Swahili language that’s spoken in this region, and these game drives have been taking place here for decades now which means that the animals are fairly habituated to humans and don’t see them as threat. Personally the thrill of encountering unhabituated wildlife in Gabon was a greater thrill but that’s beside the point.

An orphaned blind black rhino at the center

Downtown Nairobi

The flip side of animals being habituated to humans is that they are at greater threat from poachers. In addition to the pressures on Kenya’s wildlife from its growing human population and their needs, there is massive demand for wildlife products and as long as there are desperate people who are willing to do desperate things, the survival of Kenya’s superb wildlife will be at their mercy no matter how good the park protection mechanisms are.

The fees for all of Kenya’s parks are very hefty (ranging anything from $20-$80 per person per day) but if viewed from the prism of conservation that I brushed on above it can atleast seem understandable. If we tourists/travelers want to see the country’s wildlife then the park authorities, who take care of these animals and the local councils that allow the wildlife to live free on their land are perhaps right to command a hefty price from us. If the park fees are added to the transport, accommodation and guide fees, safari in Kenya can easily burn a hole in the pocket.

To me, as long as the park fees go to real conservation and not into individual pockets, it’s a fair price to pay. I would do it any given day rather than eating out or buying the latest smartphone or clothing. Unfortunately, not everyone shares the same spending preference as I do which means that safaris as they are today will continue to be for people who are either wildlife aficionado or have plenty of cash to go around.
Alteast for the local Kenyan’s, the fees are significantly lower but that might not mean much when they add the hefty costs for accommodation and transport. I don’t know what the solution is; all I do know is that I don’t have an answer for it.

With Eddie and our travel van

Coming back to our last day in Nairobi after digressing a bit there, we then walked around Nairobi downtown and my parents were fairly amazed at how developed it was. My dad mentioned that it was similar if not better than some Indian cities and my mom was amazed that the traffic was so orderly without anyone honking.

Without being condescending to anyone, I think a lot of people in India even now think of Africa as one big giant jungle abound with wild animals, disease, poverty, anarchy, and uncivilized natives. Perhaps the best thing to come out of this trip to Kenya was the fact that my family now has a better understanding of Africa.

Kenyans as people were very kind and accommodating none more so that Eddie and David our drivers for the last few days. Perhaps it’s their culture to be welcoming or maybe it’s because they are used to hosting so many tourists. Most people that I interacted with had a broad smile on their faces and were always willing to listen.

View Journey through Kenya in a larger map
It’s been just over a month since I got back from Kenya (after a couple days back home in India) and its amazing how time flies by. I called home recently and that’s exactly what my family told me too…my mother was taking about still being in Kenya and recounting every single moment while my dad had plans to invite his close buddies for a Kenyan coffee party. Sister has gone back to work and the Nephew grudgingly gone back to school; it seems atleast my brother and sister-in-law have moved on since they have already made plans for a short vacation in Goa.

I guess it’s also about time I stop penning down my experiences in Kenya and move on. I will leave with a couple videos from the Masai Mara which is without doubt the highlight for any trip to Kenya.