Biking to Kpatawee Waterfall...Check!

Our starting point in a small hamlet - the entire
village came to see the weird strangers

Finally on the selfie bandwagon

Last November I visited the sparklingly beautiful cascade at Kpatawee in Liberia’s Bong County. While there I learnt that there was a bigger one a short hike of 40 minutes upstream but since it was late afternoon by the time I had reached there I couldn't quite make the hike.

The biking team...Mike, Me, Lionel, Festus & Noel

A pretty hut with wall paintings along the way

On the way back I had called Lionel, my colleague from the accounting department to let him know that I had scoped the next destination for our biking trip. After the epic ride to Robertsport last rainy season there was a desire for a repeat. As I left the waterfall that day I wistfully wondered if I would ever be back - unsure of what the future had in store for 2014.

Break-time at a small hamlet

Oil palm plantation

A week ago I was in Lionel’s office and I casually suggested we get out of Harbel and attempt biking to Kpatawee. He immediately jumped on the idea and soon we were making phone calls to check on others who would want to join in. While Lionel arranged for the bikes, the food, and arranging the team together I made a few phone calls to arrange for a driver and a good 4WD vehicle. My Toyota corolla - a good servant though it is, wouldn't be able to make it through the dirt roads to the falls.

Lionel asking in vain if they had bananas

Riding through another hill

Getting a 4WD might sound contradictory when we were supposed to be biking but we needed them for a purpose. The waterfall lies around 140 kilometers from Harbel and for most of it the road is uneventful and currently under construction being one of the major roads network in Liberia. We weren’t going to bike the entire distance but instead saddle up at a junction where a small dirt road breaks off from the main one heading into the rural lands of central Liberia. We figured this would be a more stimulating ride. We also didn’t want to double back so the vehicles would come in handy on the way back.

Paddy fields signalling that we are not to far

A 5am start turned into a 6:30am departure but we eventually headed out of Harbel. Due to the road being under-construction, It took us longer than expected so by the time we finally started biking it was close to mid-day and although it’s the rainy season the sun was out in full glare.

Laying my eyes on the cascade
at Kpatawee on more time

Mike at the center of the lower falls

The initial section of the route was undulating with several small hills. Before starting I remembered telling Lionel that the ride to the falls was mostly flat but I was wrong. Perhaps going to the waterfall in a 4WD the last time around had clouded my perception of the route’s difficulty.

Lionel struggled and so did a couple of the others but I guess it must have been the mid-day heat rather than the undulating terrain. I didn't feel it as much - perhaps I was conditioned better after biking in the mountains of Rwanda a couple months ago. The final stretch of the route though was quite pleasant made better by the welcome arrival of some cloud cover.

Crazy Festus

By the time we arrived at the falls we were starving so lunch was very much on our minds the moment we neared the falls. A part of our team had driven to the place and set things up for us so that was much appreciated.

Trying to make my was on the slippery rocks

Having missed out on seeing the other waterfall last time around, I was determined to hike to it before it got late in the afternoon. I arranged for a local kid to be our guide to this place I will call the “Upper Kpatawee Falls”. Only Lionel joined me as the rest wanted to rest after a scrumptious meal.

Hiking toward the upper falls

The hike took us through the dense tropical bush which was not new to me but was a novel experience for Lionel. He has been in Liberia for over two decades and finally he can add the adventure of hiking in the African jungle to his thrilling collection of surviving civil wars, emergency lift-offs, evacuations, etc.

The river Maan, source for the water for the falls

I have been in far more remote and pristine jungles in my time in Africa but it’s always exciting to cross rivers on fallen rotting tree trunks and small flimsy pieces of branches. As we broke trough the canopy, the view of the Upper Kpatawee Waterfall was superb.

It’s an unspoiled cascade surrounded by luxuriant rainforest and the contrast between the bubbling white of the water and the diverse shades of the forest green was striking. The place was made even more special because we were the only people there. I guess most people who visit the lower falls don’t know about it and the ones who do don't bother to hike the short distance there.

Crossing the river on fallen, decaying tree trunks

Balancing on the flimsy branches

The guide mentioned that a hydro electric project might be set up in the not too distant future at the upper falls whose plunge seems to be more conducive to harness the kinetic force of water. The power generated from the hydro electric plant no doubt would be a huge benefit to the local community but looks like pretty soon this would be another case of a pristine part of nature blemished by the ever-growing footprint of mankind. I have mixed feeling but at least I got to see it before it inevitably changes.

It’s not always a good thing to slip and fall into the water but I guess its ok when the camera is not with you and it’s as pretty a waterfall as this. The forced dip in the cool water at the mid-section of the waterfall was invigorating after the biking and hiking but the strong current and slippery rocks did take a toll on my ankles.

The moment before I tumbled in the cool waters

Late afternoon was giving way to early evening so it was time to head back and meet the others before we pack up and depart. As we left I turned around one last time to see the waterfall because unlike last time I am certain I might not return to this place again.

The Upper Kpatawee falls

Visiting the falls was certainly a feeling of déjà vu and now every time I switch on the TV now it is a similar feeling as well. The World Cup in Brazil has started and it brings back fond memories of my time in South Africa. I can’t believe 4 years have passed by so quickly. At that time I never imagined I would still be in Liberia when the world cup was going to be hosted in Brazil four years down the road.

It’s time for me to dust off my Argentina shirt because I will be glued to the TV for the next month or so. I just hope the rains stay away during matches because in out here Liberia when it rains we loose our satellite signals…no wonder the popular DSTV goes by the acronym of “Dry Season TV”...Good luck to all the team but may Argentina win it all!