Jordan…my first foray into the Middle East

Downtown Amman

During my first assignment in Liberia I based my travels predominantly in the continent…after all, the blog was called “my African Sojourn”. I did however cheat once if you would call it that. In June 2012 I traveled to Mongolia and wrote up on my travel here. A friend rightfully caught the cheat.

My slight defense then was that I needed to go to Mongolia to get away from Africa for a while. As much as I loved being on the mother continent, I needed some fresh air and since the urge to go someplace was associated with being in Africa I considered it part of my greater sojourn. So…since I cheated once I suppose I can cheat again and have a writeup of a non-African nation on my blog.

To be honest though, going to Jordan is not exactly the same thing. I returned to Africa just 6 months ago so I can’t use the “get some fresh air” excuse. This time the desire stems from the simple fact that I want to experience other cultures while I’m on my second stint.

Road leading out of the Queen Alia airport

I have been to 21 of the 54 countries in Africa and although there are still a few that are on my bucket list I am down to my 2^nd and 3^rd tier of African countries to visit. This might sound sacrilegious for a seasoned traveler but the variety of experience between Mali and Jordan would be far greater than say Mali and Burkina Faso or between Kenya and Uganda.

Amman's stairs up the hills 

Local artist's gallery

It’s also not that Jordan just popped in my mind. Its probably been on the radar from around the same time I went to Mongolia back in 2012. I had even purchased a guidebook then, but it got used more as an adornment in my home in Liberia and then in the US than serving its real purpose. That book has gotten some serious miles though…at the very minimum its been across the Atlantic four times. Much more than most mortal beings ever will.

Before going to Jordan, I meet an ex-colleague from Liberia who now lives a pretty content life outside of the corporate hustle and bustle. Although from Jordan, she quite prefers the weather and the simplicity of life in Liberia than her country. A few quick tips from her and I felt ready…. well, sort of because your never quite 100% ready.

A Jordanian from the city of Ma'an

After having traveled so much I should be more at ease but there is always that nervousness every time I go to a new country. I can’t quite explain but it’s almost like a part of me does not want to go. I think the uncertainty does not sit well with my conscious mind. I hear professional soccer players saying they feel butterflies each time they step on the field for an important game no matter how many times they have been there. I suppose I can relate to that.

Getting to Jordan was arduous…leaving Liberia around 3am in the morning then an 8-hour layover in Casablanca and then an overnight layover of 6 hours in Doha before finally arriving in Amman. I tried to catch sleep whenever I could to mitigate knowing I didn’t want to waste time resting when I got to Jordan. Seems like nothing comes easy flying out from West Africa.

Ummayad Palace

Landing at the airport in Amman I must say I was pretty impressed. It was modern, well light and spacious...heck it even had a Starbucks! For my Indian readers, the visa was on arrival and even though it was roughly $60 with the transaction fees it felt cheap compared to some West and Central African countries. It’s probably a separate subject why things are so incredibly expensive in West and Central Africa seemingly for no reason.

The airport is located slightly out of town and is a good 30-40-minute ride to the city center but between the express bus service from the airport and the yellow taxi it was easy enough to get to my hostel, a 15-minute uphill hike from downtown Amman. The host at the hostel, was the owner’s father and was quite an interesting personality. He has a summer residence in Greece and had a very strong opinion on international politics.

He reserved his special love (or lack there of) for the US seemingly upset at their perceived meddling in Middle Eastern politics. Israel was another favorite (sic) of his but considering I’m in the Middle East that’s not surprising. He claimed that he worked for the King of Jordan himself and traveled as part of his entourage for several years so I suppose he has some insight that I don’t.

180 degree view of Amman from the Citadel

Overlooking the Roman Theater and hills of Amman from the Citadel

Panoramic view of the Roman Theater in the city center

Temple of Hercules among the greater ruins

To be fair he also had a strong opinion about the Wahabi influence from neighboring Saudi Arabia. According to him Jordan had a much-relaxed dress culture just a few decades ago. Since its neighbor’s coffers swelled with petrodollars however, they have incentivized women in Jordan to cover themselves with what he called garbage bags (abaya). Overtime, most are now compelled to conform by peer pressure even though most women dislike this more austere form of dressing. He was also a kind man, offering me part of his dinner on two of the 3 nights I stayed there over the course of my stay in Amman.

With my arrival in Amman in the late morning, I had the whole afternoon and evening to wander the city called Philadelphia during its Greco-Roman classical period. First stop was downtown Amman and getting some of my USD exchanged to Jordanian Dinars. With several money exchanging establishments in downtown and all of them having the same rate, it was not only convenient but also hassle free. It certainly took away the anxiety of not knowing if you are being ripped off.

Spices on display

Next stop was the very well preserved Roman Theatre which is the centerpiece of the things to see in the city. Climbing the hill opposite the theatre chock-a-block packed by urban settlement leads to the citadel which to me is the highlight of Amman.  It not only gives an amazing 360-degree view of the city and its surrounding hills but has ruins from several different civilizations that once flourished in Amman. Although the ruins are today a complex crumbling mix of structures from the Roman, Christian Byzantine and Muslim Umayyad period, the site is considered to the one of the oldest continuously inhabited places on earth and was once also the domain of Bronze age, Iron age, Greeks, Assyrians and other cultures.

Knafeh...a middle eastern delicacy

In fact, the whole of the region that is today’s Jordan has had layers of history painted by different civilizations that once reigned over it. My guidebook was fat but was a fascinating read especially from a historical perspective and I strongly believe that anyone that is contemplating visiting Jordan would be wise to brush up on its history before embarking.

A dinner of delicious shwarma roll from one of the several cheap eateries downtown was washed down by the indigenous dessert called Knafeh. A tad too decadent but I suppose after all the walking up and down the hills I deserved it.